Downtown Novalja

Novalja is the main town on the island of Pag and its centre of tourism, a small coastal settlement on the northern side of the island that has turned from a quiet fishing and farming community into one of the busiest summer resorts on the Adriatic. The downtown area is compact and easy to explore on foot, with a waterfront promenade, a few small squares and streets lined with cafes, restaurants, shops and bakeries. The year-round population is only a little over three thousand, but in summer the town fills with visitors, and the energy of the evenings can be considerable.

Novalja has a long history, which many visitors overlook. People have lived in the area since prehistoric times, and the Romans founded a settlement here, called Navalia, as a port; traces of their presence include an ancient water supply, a Roman aqueduct, and finds that are displayed in the local museum. Nearby, the sunken remains of the Roman town of Cissa lie under the water in a bay. Later the island passed through the hands of Venice and then the Habsburg monarchy, and the stone houses and churches of the town reflect those periods. A statue of Cardinal Alojzije Stepinac stands in town, a reminder of the island's Catholic tradition.

The reputation of the town today rests on its beaches and nightlife. Zrće Beach, a few kilometres from the centre, is sometimes nicknamed the Croatian Ibiza because of its string of open-air clubs and summer festivals, and Papaya Club is among the best known. Downtown Novalja is where visitors stay, shop and eat, and it acts as the gateway to those places, with shuttle buses and taxis connecting the town with the beaches. Quieter swimming spots, such as Ručica beach, are nearer to the town centre.

Pag is a distinctive island and Novalja is a good base for exploring it. The landscape is almost bare, with white limestone slopes and low scrub, and a trail known as Life on Mars shows its moon-like character. The island is famous for its sheep's cheese, Pag lamb, salt and lace, and local restaurants serve them, so a meal in town is a chance to taste them. Fresh fish and local wine are also on offer.

Getting there is easy by car over the Pag bridge or by ferry from Prizna on the mainland to Žigljen, with bus links from the larger Croatian cities. Plan to wander through the downtown for an hour or two, and take a stroll along the waterfront in the evening. Book accommodation early for July and August. The town suits families, groups of friends and visitors who want a mix of beaches, history and nightlife.