FARMA obrt za izradu etno suvenira

The name of this small business, FARMA, explains most of what it does. In Croatian, obrt means a craft business, usually run by a single person or family, and za izradu etno suvenira means for making ethno souvenirs. The workshop is in Popovac, a village in Baranja, the north-eastern corner of Croatia between the Drava and the Danube, close to the Hungarian border. It is a modest address rather than a large attraction, and it is worth a visit for what it represents: handmade objects rooted in local tradition.

Baranja has a mixed cultural background. Croats, Hungarians, Serbs, Germans and others have all lived here, and each community left its mark on the region's food, music, costume and crafts. Traditional skills of the Pannonian plain include embroidery and weaving, wood carving, pottery and work in straw and corn husk, and many of these crafts decorated homes, churches and festive costume. Ethno souvenirs of the kind sold in the region are often inspired by these motifs, such as red and black folk patterns, stylised flowers and symbols associated with farming and wine.

A visit to a small craft business like this is different from shopping in a large gift store. The items are usually made in small batches, often by the person who sells them, and you can ask about the materials and the method. Buying direct supports the craftsperson and helps to keep local skills going, and the objects are small enough to carry home easily. Because the business is small, products, prices and opening times can change, and it is best to call ahead or ask at the tourist office in the region before making a special trip.

The wider area has plenty to combine with a visit. Baranja is known for its wines and hearty cooking, with stews, sausages, grilled fish and sweet desserts, and for the nature of Kopački Rit, the great Danube wetland a short drive away. The wine cellars of Zmajevac, the sandy beach at Draž and the villages along the roads of the plain make a good day out, and many travellers explore the region by car or bicycle.

The shop suits travellers who prefer a personal, local souvenir to a mass-produced one, and families who enjoy meeting makers. A short stop is enough, and it fits well into a drive through eastern Croatia.