Wine Routes of Baranja ('gatori')

The Wine Routes of Baranja, known locally by the word gatori, lead through one of the best-known wine-growing areas of Croatia, in the far northeast of the country between the Danube and the Drava. Baranja is a land of low hills, plains and wetlands, and its slopes are covered with vineyards that have been tended since Roman times. The route links around twenty wineries, most of them small family businesses, and it passes through villages such as Zmajevac, Suza and Kneževi Vinogradi, where cellars dug into the soft hillside line the lanes. The word gatori refers to these cellars, which are cut into the loess soil, a fine, wind-blown deposit that is easy to dig and keeps a steady cool temperature, an ideal place for storing wine.

The region is best known for its white wines. Graševina, the most widely planted grape in Croatia's continental regions, is the star, producing fresh, fruity wines with good acidity, and Riesling, Traminer and Pinot varieties add richness and character. Reds and late-harvest wines also appear on the list, and a tasting often begins with a young, crisp white and moves toward fuller wines. Because many wineries are small, the owners often pour the wine themselves and are happy to explain the work in the vineyard and the cellar, so the experience is personal. Many places also serve food, such as cured meats, cheese, smoked sausage, the local fish stew and homemade desserts, and some offer rooms, so it is possible to stay overnight.

Cycling is one of the best ways to explore. The countryside is flat or gently rolling, and routes such as the Belje Vineyards Cycling Route take cyclists through the estates and villages, with views over the vines and the plain. A bike also reduces the worry of driving after tastings, though it is still wise to taste in moderation. The route is open all year, but the harvest in September and October is the most lively time, with new wine, grape picking and local festivals, while spring brings green slopes and blossom. Because some cellars do not keep regular hours, it is advisable to call ahead and arrange visits, particularly for groups.

The region offers more than wine. The Baranja culinary tradition, with its stews, sausages, grilled fish and sweet desserts, is a highlight, and a traditional Baranja house shows rural architecture. The beach at Draž, known as the Baranja Maldives, the Danube forests at Zlatna Greda and the Baranja mountaineering path give a mix of nature and activity. Kopački Rit Nature Park, with its great wetland, lies close by.

The routes suit wine lovers, cyclists, couples and food enthusiasts. Plan at least a day, ideally two, and choose a few cellars rather than trying to visit them all.