Gostiona 'San Lorenzo'

Gostiona San Lorenzo is a pizzeria and restaurant in Sveti Lovreč, a small hill town in central Istria, on Ulica Podzidine, a name that means roughly below the walls. The restaurant takes its name from San Lorenzo, the Italian form of the town's patron saint, St. Lawrence, and the Croatian name of the town itself, Sveti Lovreč, comes from the same saint. The name tells you a lot about the place: Istria has been a mix of Croatian and Italian culture for centuries, and many towns carry both versions of their names.

Sveti Lovreč is a quiet, compact settlement with a medieval character. Its narrow lanes, stone houses and old defensive walls cluster on a ridge above the surrounding countryside of vineyards, olive groves and farmland, and the town's bell tower and old church are the main landmarks. The Historic Village Center and the Sveti Lovreč Medieval Town and Bell Tower are a few steps from the restaurant. The town is far from the busy coast, so evenings are calm.

The menu follows the pattern of many Istrian eating places: pizzas baked in a wood or electric oven, pasta dishes, grilled meat and fish, salads and other Italian and Mediterranean plates, with Istrian olive oil and local wine in the background. Vegetarians can usually find something to eat among the pizzas and pastas, and the casual style makes it a good stop for families with children. Seating outside gives a view of the stone houses and the evening light, and it is pleasant in the warmer months.

As with any small restaurant, opening times, menus and prices change by season, so it is sensible to check locally or call ahead, especially outside summer and at the start or end of the day. Credit card use and extras such as Wi-Fi may vary, and it is worth asking if you need them.

The restaurant works best as part of a half-day in the interior of Istria. A walk through Sveti Lovreč, a look at the medieval bell tower and the old walls and a meal at San Lorenzo make an easy outing, and the countryside around is good for a drive or a bike ride, with other hill towns such as Motovun, Višnjan and Pazin within reach. It suits couples, families and travellers who prefer a simple, relaxed meal in a small place to a formal dinner.