Sveti Lovreč Medieval Town and Bell Tower

Sveti Lovreč is a small, circular hill town in western Istria, in the hinterland between Poreč and Vrsar, about ten kilometres from the coast, and it is one of the best-preserved medieval settlements on the peninsula. The Italian name is San Lorenzo del Pasenatico. The town sits on a low hill among fields, vineyards and olive groves, and its compact, oval plan, with houses packed within a ring of walls, hints at an origin as a prehistoric hillfort. The setting is calm, and few visitors come here compared with the nearby coast, which is part of its appeal.

The history of the place is long. The hill was fortified in antiquity, and the settlement continued through the Byzantine period and the Middle Ages, when it was a seat of local administration and, for a time, of a bishop. It later came under the rule of the Republic of Venice, which placed a captain here and strengthened the walls. The town takes its name from the church of St. Lawrence, Lovrenc in the local form, which stood on the hill, and its tall Romanesque bell tower, built in the eleventh century, still rises above the roofs as the town's landmark and can be seen from a long way off.

The entrance to the town is through the main gate, called Velika vrata, which is decorated with the coats of arms of noble families and with the Lion of St. Mark, the symbol of Venice. Inside, narrow lanes lead to the central square, known locally as the Plac, where a loggia, once used for official gatherings and legal proceedings, stands beside a stone pillar of shame to which wrongdoers were once tied for public humiliation. The houses are built of local limestone, with arched doorways, stone stairs and small courtyards, and many of them have been restored. The parish church, a basilica dedicated to St. Martin, is known for its medieval frescoes, which date from an early period, and it is one of the most interesting churches in the area.

Walking around the town takes about an hour at an easy pace, and you can climb the bell tower when it is open for a view over the red roofs and the surrounding countryside, with the sea and the Brijuni islands visible in the distance on a clear day. There is a restaurant in the town serving Istrian dishes, such as homemade pasta, truffles and local wine, and the area around it is a good place to taste olive oil and Malvazija.

There are no fixed opening hours for the town itself, which is open to walkers at any time, but the tower and church may have restricted access, so ask locally. Wear comfortable shoes for the uneven stone. The town suits couples, photographers and slow travellers who enjoy quiet medieval villages.