Great Cascades (Velike Kaskade)

The Great Cascades are one of the most beautiful stretches of Plitvice Lakes National Park, the most visited natural site in Croatia and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. The park is a chain of sixteen lakes arranged in steps in a forested valley in the Lika highlands, linked by waterfalls and cascades, and the Great Cascades are a group of these falls that tumble over a series of rocky barriers in a staircase of white water between pools of green and blue. Unlike the single large drop of the Veliki Slap, the tallest waterfall in the park, the Great Cascades are a gentle, multi-level display, where water seems to pour down the mossy slope in dozens of small streams.

The lakes and waterfalls of Plitvice exist because of travertine, a soft, porous form of limestone that is deposited by the water as it flows. The streams here carry large amounts of dissolved calcium carbonate, and when the water meets moss, algae and plant material, the mineral is precipitated and gradually builds up natural dams. These barriers grow slowly, by a fraction of a centimetre a year, and over thousands of years have created the terraces and lakes. The process is continuing, which is why the park is described as a living landscape, and why visitors are asked to stay on the paths and not to touch the formations. The colours of the water, from turquoise to deep green, vary with the minerals, the light and the season.

At the Great Cascades, wooden boardwalks and paths lead close to the water, with viewpoints where you can stand above the falls and look down the stairs of water. The sound of rushing water is constant, and a fine spray hangs in the air on warm days. The boardwalks are a pleasure to walk on, but they can be crowded in the middle of the day in summer, and the wooden planks are slippery when wet, so wear shoes with grip. The best times to see the cascades are early morning and late afternoon, when the crowds thin and the light is soft, and spring, when the water level is high after snowmelt, or autumn, when the surrounding beech forest turns to gold and red.

Visiting the cascades is part of a wider route through the park. Marked trails of different lengths link the upper and lower lakes, and boats and a panoramic electric train carry visitors between points, and the sights listed in this guide include the Sastavci waterfall, the lower lakes and the upper lakes. A full circuit takes several hours. The entrance ticket covers all the routes, and prices and hours change with the season, so check the park's official website, and buy tickets online in summer.

Bring water, a rain jacket and comfortable shoes, and be prepared for variable mountain weather. Swimming is not allowed. Allow an hour for the cascades or a full day for the park. The park suits everyone, from families to photographers.