Upper Lakes (Gornja Jezera)

The Upper Lakes (Gornja Jezera) are the upper section of Plitvice Lakes National Park, a chain of twelve lakes that step down a wide valley through dense forest. They are often considered the more open and varied half of the park, with a gentler slope than the lower canyon, in contrast to the narrower, deeper canyon of the Lower Lakes (Donja Jezera). The two sections together form the UNESCO World Heritage landscape.

Geology explains the look. The Upper Lakes lie on dolomite, a rock that water cannot easily pass through, so the lakes sit on the surface, and the travertine barriers that separate them are built by mosses and algae from the lime carried in the water. The result is a staircase of pools joined by small cascades and low waterfalls, with boardwalks running only a few centimetres above the surface. Among the lakes are Prošćansko Jezero, the highest and one of the biggest, then Ciginovac, Okrugljak, Batinovac, Galovac and Kozjak, the largest lake of the whole park, which ends the upper chain and leads into the lower canyon. Each has its own shade, from pale turquoise to deep green, depending on depth, minerals and light.

Walking is the main way to see the area. Marked routes follow wooden walkways between the lakes, and an electric boat crosses Kozjak, while a panoramic bus-like train helps with the longer distances. A circuit of the Upper Lakes takes a couple of hours, more if you stop for photographs. Great Cascades (Velike Kaskade) and Sastavci Waterfall, as well as Veliki Slap, lie farther down the valley, below the quieter lake chain of the Upper Lakes.

The forests that surround the water are mostly beech and fir, and the park is home to bears, wolves, otters and many birds, though they keep well out of the way of walkers. Spring brings the heaviest flow and the loudest water, summer brings the clearest colours and the biggest crowds, and autumn paints the slopes in red and gold.

For the best experience, start early, enter by the less crowded gate, and keep to the boardwalks, as swimming and leaving the paths are not allowed in the park. The Upper Lakes suit walkers, photographers and families, and the gentle gradient makes them a good choice for people who prefer easy terrain.