Plitvice Lakes

Plitvice Lakes National Park is Croatia's best-known natural sight and has been on the UNESCO World Heritage list since 1979. Sixteen named lakes step down a limestone valley in the Lika region, between the Mala Kapela and Plješivica mountains, each one held back by a natural dam of travertine, the pale rock that forms where mineral-rich water meets moss and algae. Those dams are still growing, a few millimetres a year, which is why the waterfalls and the colour of the lakes shift slowly from one decade to the next.

The lakes are grouped into the Upper Lakes and the Lower Lakes. The Upper Lakes sit in a dolomite basin and are larger and greener, with long boardwalks running just above the water. The Lower Lakes lie in a narrower limestone canyon, where the pools are smaller and the cliffs closer. Kozjak, the largest lake, closes the Upper Lakes and is crossed by an electric boat. The tallest fall, Veliki Slap, drops about 78 metres and is the highest waterfall in Croatia. The Great Cascades (Velike Kaskade), the Sastavci Waterfall and the Lower Lakes (Donja Jezera) are each worth a stop in their own right.

Most of the park is forest, mainly beech with fir and spruce, and it is one of the larger areas of old woodland in the country. Brown bears, wolves and lynx live here, though you are far more likely to meet the park's many birds, butterflies and dragonflies. The colour of the water is the other draw. Depending on the minerals, the amount of sunlight and the angle of view, a single lake can look turquoise, emerald, grey or deep blue.

Walking is the main activity. Marked trails of varying length link the entrances, the lakes and the boat landings, and the footpaths are largely wooden planks, so wear shoes with good grip, since the boards are slippery when wet. A full circuit takes most of a day. The park is busiest in summer, when the narrow boardwalks fill up by late morning; early starts, spring and autumn bring quieter paths, and in winter snow and ice change the character of the place entirely, though some routes may be closed.

Plitvice is a long day trip from Zagreb, Zadar or Split, and many travellers break the drive to or from the coast here. It suits walkers of every age, photographers and anyone who wants a gentle, scenic outing rather than a demanding hike. Staying overnight in or near the park lets you see the lakes in the soft light of morning or evening, once the day-trip crowds have gone.