Kamačnik

Kamačnik Canyon is a small river valley in Gorski Kotar, the forested highland between Rijeka and Karlovac, on the edge of the town of Vrbovsko. The stream is short, clear and fast, and over thousands of years it has cut a narrow valley through limestone, so that a path beside the water passes cliffs, boulders and old forest in a short distance. It is the best-known walk in the Vrbovsko area and a favourite with people from Rijeka and Zagreb who want a cool, shaded outing.

The walk to the spring of the Kamačnik and back covers about seven kilometres and takes roughly three hours at an easy pace, with stops for photographs. The trail runs beside the water, crossing it on wooden bridges, and passes small cascades, deep green pools, mossy rocks and viewpoints. Beech, fir and maple grow thickly, and in summer they close over the path in a green canopy that keeps the air cool even on a hot day. Spring brings fresh leaves and the loudest water, while autumn turns the slopes red and gold. The sound of water is constant along the route, and the clarity of the stream is striking.

The walk is not difficult, but the path can be wet, rooty and slippery in places, so shoes with grip are important, and the surface after rain needs care. Small children can manage it if they are sure-footed. There are benches and picnic spots along the way, and it is a good idea to carry water and a snack. The stream is a protected natural feature, so visitors are asked to stay on the path, to take their rubbish home and to avoid disturbing the vegetation and the wildlife. With luck, you may see dippers, salamanders and butterflies, and in the wider woods lie bears, lynx and deer.

Vrbovsko has other places to explore. The View from the Summit of Bijela Kosa is a viewpoint reached by a mountain walk, and Dulin Ponor is a karst feature in the same part of Gorski Kotar, a landscape of sinkholes, caves and underground rivers. The region is also good for cycling and for quiet drives along forest roads. Vrbovsko itself has restaurants serving local dishes, and traditional Gorski Kotar food includes game, trout, mushrooms and forest berries.

Kamačnik suits hikers, families and photographers, and it makes an easy half-day trip from the coast or from Zagreb. Check local conditions before you go, especially after heavy rain.