View from the Summit of Bijela Kosa

Bijela Kosa is a forested summit in the hills around Vrbovsko, a small town in Gorski Kotar, the mountain region of western Croatia between Zagreb and the Adriatic. It is not a famous peak, and it does not appear on the lists of the country's major mountains, but for people who like to hike in quiet places, that is part of its appeal. The view from the summit is the reward at the end of a walk through the woods, and it gives a good sense of the structure of the region: ridge after ridge of forest, with valleys between them and few signs of human presence.

Gorski Kotar is the most densely wooded region in Croatia, and the landscape around Vrbovsko is typical of it. The hills are covered with beech, fir and spruce, with meadows around the villages and streams running in narrow valleys. The altitude is moderate, and the climate is cool and humid, with a lot of rain and, in winter, snow. This gives the forest its dense, green character, and in autumn the beech leaves turn golden, which makes October one of the best months for walking. On a clear day, from the top of a hill like Bijela Kosa, you can see over the surrounding ridges toward the higher mountains of the region.

Reaching the summit is a matter of a half-day hike on forest tracks and paths, and because the hill is not heavily visited, you may meet nobody at all along the way. That means that you must be self-sufficient. Carry a map or offline track, as marks can be sparse, bring water, food and layers of clothing, and wear sturdy boots, since paths can be wet and muddy. Let someone know where you are going, and remember that mobile coverage may be weak. Wildlife is plentiful in Gorski Kotar, and bears, wolves and lynx live in the region, though they avoid people, and it is sensible to make some noise while walking.

The surroundings of Vrbovsko have other natural highlights. The Kamačnik canyon, a cool, wooded gorge with a stream and wooden walkways, is one of the best short walks in the region and is listed in this guide, and the Dulin Ponor, where the Dobra river disappears underground, is another feature of the karst. The Dobra river itself is known for its clear water and for canoeing, and the nearby historic road known as the Lujzijana crosses the region from Karlovac to the coast.

The summit suits walkers who enjoy solitude and quiet landscapes and photographers who like early and late light. Allow half a day for the hike and the descent.