Krk Old Town Square (Trg Slobode)

Trg Slobode, Freedom Square, is the central square of the old town of Krk, the historic capital of the island of the same name in the Kvarner Bay, and the best place to understand the long history of one of the oldest towns on the Adriatic. The old town is a compact oval of stone lanes and houses inside medieval walls, on the site of the Roman settlement of Curicum, and the square lies at the meeting point of the main streets, following the layout of the ancient town, with a main street and a cross street that echo the Roman grid. Walking across it, you are walking through two thousand years of continuous settlement.

The people who lived here were the Liburnians, a seafaring tribe, then the Romans, who made it a municipium with baths, a forum and streets, then the early Slavs and the Croats, followed by the Venetians and the powerful Frankopan family, who ruled the island in the Middle Ages and left their mark on the architecture. The Frankopan castle, in the adjoining square called Kamplin, is used for concerts and summer events, and the town walls, which survive in long stretches and are among the longest preserved in Croatia, enclose the old centre and give it a sense of unity. Roman remains, including parts of baths and a mosaic, can be seen in the old town, and they are a reminder that Krk was an important place in antiquity.

Around the square stand the town's main churches. The cathedral, a large Romanesque church that has been rebuilt and extended over the centuries, incorporates elements from an earlier early Christian basilica, and beside it stands a small, ancient church of St. Quirinus, with a distinctive form and a very old origin. Together they make a remarkable group in a small space. The surrounding buildings are of local stone, with arched ground floors that hold cafes, shops and restaurants, and the paving is smooth and polished by centuries of footsteps. The square is lively in the evenings, when tables spill onto the pavement and visitors walk the narrow streets, and in the morning it is quiet.

It is free to enter and open at all times. A short walk along the sea wall brings you to the harbour and the beaches, and the old town can be explored in an hour or two, with its gates, its walls and its small churches, including the church of St. Mary, which is listed in this guide. The surrounding island is a mix of beaches, villages and hills, with the Krk bridge connecting it to the mainland, and there are boat trips from the harbour in season.

Wear comfortable shoes for the stone paving, which can be slippery when wet. Visit early or late to avoid the crowds in July and August. The square suits history lovers, photographers and travellers who like lively old towns.