Life On Mars Trail

The Life on Mars Trail is a walking route on the northwestern coast of Pag Island, near Novalja, in Croatia, which takes its name from the bare, rocky landscape through which it passes. The terrain looks so unlike the green Mediterranean of postcards that many people say it is Martian-like and resembles the surface of another planet, and the contrast of pale, cracked stone with the blue sea and the distant Velebit mountains makes the walk memorable.

Pag’s landscape is very special. The island lies on the seaward side of the Velebit range, directly in the path of the bura, the strong, cold wind that blows from the mountains, and the wind carries salt spray across the island, which stunts vegetation and strips the soil. Over centuries, grazing sheep and the harsh climate have turned much of the island into a bare, almost treeless expanse of limestone, dotted with low aromatic shrubs such as sage, and cut by thousands of kilometres of dry-stone walls. The limestone is pale grey to white, weathered into sharp ridges and hollows, and in the clear light of the Adriatic it has an eerie, lunar quality that is the origin of the trail’s name.

The route winds along the coast and over the rocky hills, with sweeping views of the Adriatic Sea, the Velebit range on the mainland and the islands, and it connects several pretty beaches. Among them are Ručica, Beritnica, Slana and Malin, small pebble coves where hikers can stop for a swim and a rest. The trail is marked, but the stony paths demand attention, and walkers who stray from the marked route can have difficulty finding their way, so sturdy shoes, plenty of water and a map or navigation app are essential. There is almost no shade, which means that the walk is best enjoyed in spring or late autumn, and summer heat can make it hard going. Early morning is the best time in warm weather.

For adventurous visitors there is an extra thrill: the first Croatian Via Ferrata, a protected climbing route of about a hundred metres, can be reached from Slana bay, and it adds a vertical dimension to the walk, though proper equipment and experience are required. Each spring, in March, an annual event named after the trail offers routes of three different lengths for runners and walkers, catering to different levels of fitness.

The trail is free and generally accessible at all hours, and dogs are allowed on leads. Nearby Novalja has the Roman Aqueduct, the Papaya Club and the famous Zrće Beach, as well as restaurants for a meal after the walk. Whether you are a seasoned hiker or a casual walker, the trail suits hikers, photographers and families with older children, and it is best in the cool seasons.