Local Seafood Restaurants

Silba is a small, car-free island in the Zadar archipelago, in northern Dalmatia, and its seafood restaurants are one of the main pleasures of a visit. The island is long and narrow, with a single main settlement spread along a low ridge, and there are no cars, only footpaths, a few bicycles and the occasional hand cart, so life moves at the pace of a walk. Silba has a long maritime tradition. In the 19th century, the island's sea captains and shipowners were prominent in the Adriatic trade, and some of the grand houses built from that wealth still stand, along with a tower, called Toreta, built by a captain as a tribute to his wife. The community is small and close-knit, and the island's cuisine reflects its self-sufficient history, with fishing, small farms and gardens providing most of what is eaten.

The restaurants are mostly small and family-run, and they offer a simple and honest style of Dalmatian cooking. The menu depends on the day's catch, and typically includes grilled fish, such as sea bass, bream and John Dory, as well as octopus, squid, shrimp and shellfish prepared in traditional ways. Dishes are usually cooked with little more than olive oil, garlic, parsley and lemon, which allows the freshness of the fish to speak, and portions are generous. Specialities include black risotto, made with cuttlefish ink, octopus salad, and octopus cooked under a bell-shaped lid with potatoes, a classic of the region. Vegetables and herbs often come from local gardens, and wine, olive oil and bread are also local or from nearby islands. Many restaurants have outdoor tables with views of the sea or the harbour, which adds to the pleasure of a long meal.

The atmosphere is warm and welcoming, and diners often chat with owners and neighbours. Because the island has few visitors compared with more famous destinations, prices tend to be moderate, though they rise in high summer, and it is wise to ask the price of fish, which is often sold by weight, before ordering. In July and August, reservations are advisable, particularly for dinner, and some places close outside the main season, so check opening times. Eating on Silba is also a way to experience the island's character, and an evening meal followed by a walk under the stars, with almost no light pollution, is a memorable experience.

Getting to Silba requires some planning. Regular ferries and catamarans connect the island with Zadar, and day trips by boat are possible from nearby points on the coast and from other islands, so check timetables and book ahead in summer. Once on the island, everything is within walking distance, including beaches, small chapels such as the Chapel of St. Anthony, stone-walled paths and hiking trails. The island's quiet coast has clear water and secluded coves.

The restaurants suit food lovers, couples and travellers who enjoy quiet islands. Plan an unhurried meal, and bring cash in case card payment is not available.