Lubenice

Lubenice is a small village on a high cliff at the northwestern end of Cres Island, in the Kvarner region of Croatia, and it is one of the most dramatic sites on any of the Adriatic islands, with the Adriatic Sea far below. It stands about 378 metres above the sea on a rocky ridge, with almost sheer drops on three sides, and it can be seen from a long way off as a cluster of pale stone houses at the edge of the sky.

Its position explains both its history and its present state. A hilltop site this high was easy to defend and gave a long view of ships passing through the Kvarner Gulf, which made it attractive from ancient times. Tradition links it with a settlement from the Roman period, known by a name recorded as Hibernicia, which is sometimes explained as a reference to the cold winters at this height. In the Middle Ages the village was fortified, and traces of its walls and gates still stand among the houses. For centuries it was home to a community of farmers and shepherds, who lived in the stone houses and worked the stony land around, but the steep, isolated position made life hard, and in the twentieth century most people left for the coast and for towns. Today only a small number of residents remain year-round, and some of the houses have been restored by artists and visitors.

The village has the look of a place that has hardly changed. Lubenice’s lanes of worn stone link low buildings with small windows and tiled roofs, and at the edge there are terraces with wide views over the sea toward the islands of Krk, Plavnik and the mainland coast. The Gothic church of Saint Anthony the Abbot, from the fifteenth century, is known for its acoustics and is used for music evenings in summer, in a series that draws musicians from around the region. The parish church of the Blessed Virgin Mary has a bell tower that was rebuilt after being struck by lightning.

Below the village, a steep path leads down to a small pebble beach known as Sveti Ivan, a long walk with a rewarding swim at the end. Take plenty of water, sturdy shoes and a hat, since the climb back is strenuous, particularly in the heat of summer.

Reaching Lubenice involves a narrow, winding road from the main island road, which is one reason it remains quiet. Visit in the late afternoon for the light on the stone and the sunset over the water, and treat it as a place to slow down. It suits walkers, photographers and anyone interested in abandoned and half-revived villages.