Plaza Sv. Ivan

Plaža Sv. Ivan (Plaza Sv. Ivan) is a secluded pebble beach at the foot of the steep cliffs below Lubenice, on Cres Island, in the Kvarner Bay, in Croatia. It is reached by a long walk or by boat, and it is one of Croatia’s wildest and most beautiful swimming places on the northern Adriatic Sea, with no buildings, no loungers and no noise except the sea and the wind.

The beach lies at the bottom of a drop of about 378 metres, since the village of Lubenice stands on a ridge high above, and the contrast of the pale village stones on the skyline and the blue water at the bottom is one of the memorable views of the island. Cres is a long, narrow island, and its northern part, the Tramuntana, is a rugged, sparsely populated landscape of dry stone walls, sheep pastures, oak woods and bare limestone. The coast on the western side faces the open sea, and it is steep and rocky, with few places where it is possible to reach the water. Sveti Ivan, which means Saint John, is one of the few, a small cove of bright, smooth shingle enclosed by cliffs.

The path from Lubenice is steep, rocky and winding, and the descent takes about fifty minutes to an hour, with the climb back taking longer. It is not dangerous for a fit walker, but it is demanding, especially in the heat of summer, and sturdy footwear, a hat and plenty of water are essential. Because there are no facilities at all on the beach, you need to bring everything you will want, including food, drinks and sun protection, and to carry out all rubbish. Many people arrive by boat instead, from Cres and other ports along the coast, which avoids the walk but does require a boat trip in suitable weather.

The reward is a pristine stretch of white shingle with turquoise, transparent water, framed by cliffs and the sound of waves. Swimming and snorkelling are excellent, though the stones are smooth and the way into the water can be steep, so water shoes are helpful. From the water, the view back up to Lubenice is impressive, a village that seems to hang from the sky. The sense of isolation is part of the beauty. The beach can be busy in July and August on days when many boats come, but outside midday it is usually calm.

Combine a visit with time in Lubenice itself, which has a medieval centre, a Gothic church and viewpoints. Further along the island, the Eco-centre at Beli protects the griffon vultures that nest on the cliffs. The beach suits fit walkers, boat visitors and anyone who loves wild coves. Check the weather before descending, since the cliffs can be dangerous when wet.