Medvedgrad Castle

Medvedgrad Castle is a medieval fortress on the southern slope of Mount Medvednica, the wooded mountain that rises directly behind Zagreb, and it is one of the most evocative historic sites in the capital's surroundings. It stands on a ridge at about 500 metres above sea level, with views over the city and the Sava plain, and it can be reached by a walk from the edge of the city or by road. It is one of the favourite outings for Zagreb residents.

The castle was built in the middle of the 13th century, in the years after the Mongol, or Tatar, invasion of 1242 had devastated Croatian lands. The bishop of Zagreb, Philip, ordered the construction of a strong fortress on the mountain as a refuge for the church and the city, and the work was completed in the 1250s. In its time the castle was a powerful stronghold, with towers, walls and a residence for the bishop and his garrison. Over the centuries, it passed through the hands of many owners, from bishops to nobles, and in the 16th century, as the fortress lost its military importance, it began to decline. An earthquake in the late 16th century damaged it badly, and for hundreds of years the castle stood as a ruin.

Legend has added colour to the story. The most famous tale is that of the Black Queen, Barbara of Celje, the wife of King Sigismund of Hungary, who is said to have lived at Medvedgrad and to have practised dark arts, and whose ghost is said to haunt the ruins. The tale is more folklore than fact, but it helps explain why the castle is so rich in stories, and it is a popular theme for storytellers and in local festivals. In the late 20th century, the castle was restored, and the walls and towers were repaired so that visitors can climb and explore them. Next to it stands the Altar of the Homeland (Oltar domovine), a memorial to those who died for Croatia.

The castle also houses a visitor centre for the surrounding nature park, with exhibitions about the nature and culture of the mountain, and a café. Opening times vary by season and may be closed on certain days, so check before you go. The Medvednica Mountain, the Puntijarka Mountain Hut, the Sljeme Summit and TV Tower, the Sljeme Ski Resort and Veternica Cave are other places on the mountain.

The castle suits walkers, history lovers and families, and it takes a couple of hours including a stroll on the paths. Bring water and sturdy shoes.