Mirabella Fortress (Peovica)

Mirabella Fortress, also known as Peovica, is a small stone fortress on a rocky spur above the old town of Omiš, on the Dalmatian coast between Split and Makarska. Omiš lies at the mouth of the Cetina river, where the river cuts through a narrow gorge in the Mosor and Omiška Dinara mountains and flows out to sea. This setting made the town a natural lair for the Omiš pirates, a seafaring community that was powerful in the Middle Ages. Led for a long time by the noble Kačić family, they used light, fast ships to raid and to control traffic in the central Adriatic, and they could retreat up the river into the canyon when pursued. The fortress is one of the monuments that recall that time, and it is generally dated to the 13th century, though it was modified later.

A second fortress, called Starigrad or Fortica, stands much higher on the mountain above, and it is regarded as the main stronghold. Mirabella, lower on the slope, is easier to reach and completes the system of defences that overlooked the town and the river mouth. A story associated with the area tells of a clever defence during an Ottoman attack in the 16th century, when the defenders are said to have made the enemy believe they were far more numerous by firing guns and shouting. Whatever the exact details, the fortress belongs to a region that was a frontier between Venice and the Ottoman Empire for centuries, and Omiš was a town used to defending itself.

Getting there is part of the experience. A steep stone staircase climbs from the old town, passing through narrow streets, small houses and gates, and the walk takes around twenty minutes at a steady pace. The route is moderately demanding, particularly in summer heat, so wear sturdy shoes, bring water and a hat and start early in the day. At the top, the interior of the fortress is minimal, with walls and a few rooms, but the view is the real reward. Below you lie the rooftops of Omiš, the green Cetina gorge, the bridge and the blue Adriatic with the island of Brač on the horizon. It is among the best viewpoints on this part of the coast, and photographers favour late afternoon.

Omiš offers more. The Church of St. Peter at Priko is an early medieval church on the shore, the Cetina Canyon provides rafting, canoeing and zip-lining, and the town beach is a short walk from the foot of the fortress stairs. The Starigrad Fortress can be reached by a longer climb for those with energy.

The fortress suits history enthusiasts, hikers, photographers and families with older children. Allow about an hour for the round trip, plus time at the top.