Starigrad Fortress (Fortica)

Starigrad Fortress, known locally as Fortica, is the highest of the fortifications of Omiš, a town on the Dalmatian coast between Split and Makarska, and the climb to it rewards walkers with one of the best views on the Adriatic. It stands on a steep cliff of the mountain that rises directly behind the old town, at an elevation of roughly 300 metres, and from its walls you look straight down on the red roofs of Omiš, the green gorge of the Cetina river, the islands offshore and the long line of the coast. The fortress was built in the 15th century, in a period when the Dalmatian hinterland was under constant pressure from Ottoman raids, and it was designed as a refuge and lookout for the local population. It stands on the site of earlier defences and forms part of a system that also includes the lower fortress of Mirabella, known as Peovica.

The fort is built of local limestone and follows the shape of the rock. A two-storey square tower served as the lookout and last point of defence, and the surrounding walls enclose an inner bailey divided into two levels, with steps and terraces that follow the slope. The structure is solid and plain, and its military purpose is obvious: the defenders had a clear view of anyone approaching from the sea or from the river valley, and the steep cliffs on three sides made a direct attack very difficult. The interior has been restored in part, and visitors can walk along the walls and up the tower, taking care on the stone steps.

The hike is the main challenge. The path begins in the old town, near the foot of Mirabella, and climbs steeply, with sections of stone steps, rocky ground and loose gravel that can be slippery after rain. At a steady pace the ascent takes a little under an hour, and it is hotter and more tiring in summer, so start early, wear sturdy shoes, carry plenty of water and a hat, and leave time for the way down. There is an entrance fee payable at the fortress, and it is wise to carry some cash, since facilities on the hill are minimal. The effort is worthwhile, since on a clear day the panorama stretches over the island of Brač, the Cetina estuary and the mountains of the Mosor range.

Omiš has more to explore. Mirabella Fortress, the shorter climb, and the Church of St. Peter at Priko, a small early medieval church on the shore, are nearby, and the Cetina Canyon offers rafting, canoeing and zip-lining. The old town, with its narrow lanes and stone houses, has cafés for a rest after the descent.

The fortress suits keen walkers, photographers and history lovers. Visit in the morning or in the late afternoon, when the light is soft and the heat is less intense.