Museum of Broken Relationships

The Museum of Broken Relationships is housed in the Kulmer Palace in the Upper Town of Zagreb, near St. Mark’s Church, and it is one of the most original museums in Europe. Instead of displaying paintings or archaeological finds, it shows ordinary objects donated by people from around the world, each one a reminder of a love, friendship or family bond that has ended, and each accompanied by a short, personal story.

The museum grew from a simple idea. It was created in the mid-2000s by two Zagreb artists, Olinka Vištica and Dražen Grubišić, who had themselves been a couple and who found themselves with the leftovers of their relationship. Rather than throw the objects away, they began to collect similar items from friends and strangers, and showed them in a travelling exhibition that visited many countries. Visitors responded with enthusiasm, and the project eventually found a permanent home in Zagreb. It has since won international recognition, including a European museum award, and has inspired branches and imitators elsewhere.

Open to all, the exhibits are strikingly varied. A wedding dress, an axe used to chop up an ex-partner’s furniture, a pair of handcuffs, a garden gnome, a teddy bear, a letter, a prosthetic leg and a toaster have all appeared, each one with a label that tells the donor’s story, sometimes funny, often moving and occasionally painful. The labels are written in Croatian and English, so international visitors can read them easily, and the stories range across romantic love, family and friendship, as well as political loss and migration. Whether funny or sad, because the donors are anonymous, you read each account as a human experience rather than as celebrity gossip.

The building adds to the experience. Kulmer Palace is an elegant baroque residence in the old Upper Town, with high rooms and wooden floors, and its quiet interior suits the intimate nature of the displays. A visit typically takes less than an hour, though many people stay longer to read every story, and a small shop and café offer a place to reflect afterwards. The museum is also open to new donations, and visitors can leave their own stories, which keeps the collection growing.

The surroundings are easy to explore. St. Mark’s Church with its coloured tile roof, the Gric Tunnel, the Lotrščak Tower and the Strossmayer Promenade are within a short walk, and Ban Jelačić Square and the Dolac Market lie down the hill. Opening hours and ticket prices change with the season, so check before going.

The museum suits couples and friends, solo visitors and anyone who likes quirky, thought-provoking places. It is not suitable for people who want a light distraction, since some stories are sad, but many find the visit cathartic.