Narodni Trg (People's Square, Zadar)

Narodni Trg, the People's Square, in Zadar, Croatia, has been the civic centre of Zadar for centuries, and it is still the place where the old town gathers. The square lies a few steps from the main street of the old town, Kalelarga, and from the Roman Forum, and it is surrounded by buildings that show the long layering of Zadar's history, with Venetian, Austrian and modern architecture side by side. It is the place where people meet, drink coffee and watch the city pass by.

The most recognisable building on the square is the City Guard (Gradska straža), a 16th-century structure that was built to house the guard of the Venetian city and is topped by a clock tower. The guard building is small and handsome, and its tower and clock are the main landmark of the square. Opposite stands the City Loggia, an open arcaded hall built in the same period, which was used as a court and a place for public announcements and today works as an exhibition hall. The square is also home to the old Town Hall, with its characteristic façade, and to cafés that put tables out under the arcades and in front of the buildings, so that the place feels like an outdoor living room.

Zadar's history helps to explain its character. Under Venetian rule, which lasted for several centuries until the end of the 18th century, the city was the capital of Dalmatia and a strong fortress against the Ottomans. Later it passed to Austria, then to Italy between the wars, and it was damaged badly by bombing in the Second World War and again in the 1990s. The old town has been rebuilt with care, and Narodni Trg is part of that revival. A quiet moment here, away from the busier waterfront, gives a sense of everyday life in Zadar, with locals chatting, children playing and street musicians performing in the evening.

The square is best experienced slowly. Coffee at a café is the classic way to spend a half-hour, and in the evening the lights come on and the square fills with people. For a quieter visit, go in the morning or the early afternoon. There is no admission fee, and the square can be visited at any time.

Other places in the old town include the Five Wells Square (Trg Pet Bunara), St. Chrysogonus Church, Queen Jelena Madije Park, the Sea Organ and the Greeting to the Sun, which are a short walk away. The square suits couples, families and anyone exploring Zadar on foot.