Picturesque Squares And Alleys Of Varaždin

Varaždin is a town in the north of Croatia, on the Drava, and it is often called the capital of Baroque in the country. For a short time in the 18th century, from 1767 to 1776, it was the seat of the Croatian government, and the wealthy nobles who lived here built elegant palaces and townhouses. A disastrous fire in 1776 destroyed much of the old town, and the rebuilding that followed gave it the Baroque and Rococo look that it has today, with pastel façades, carved doorways, wrought-iron balconies and ornate gables.

The historic centre is compact and almost entirely pedestrian, which makes it a pleasure to explore. King Tomislav Square (Trg Kralja Tomislava) is the main square, an open triangular space lined with palaces, cafés and shops, and the 16th-century Town Hall (Gradska vijećnica), one of the oldest in Croatia, stands at one end where a ceremonial guard change is held in season. Nearby, the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary (Varaždin Cathedral), a Baroque Jesuit church, has a lavishly decorated interior. A statue of Gregory of Nin, the medieval bishop who defended the use of the Croatian language in the church, stands in the old town, and the Old Blacksmith's recalls the town's crafts. The Varaždin City Museum in Stari Grad Castle, a large Renaissance fortress with a moat and towers, anchors the northern end of the old town, and it is the town's main landmark.

Between the squares, a network of narrow alleys and cobbled streets connects courtyards, passages and small plazas, and wandering without a plan is a good way to find them. The Cobbled Streets Of Varaždin offer glimpses of old doorways, signs and lamps, and shops that sell local chocolate, crafts and antiques. The cemetery of Varaždin is also worth a visit; it is laid out as a park, with avenues of trees clipped into shapes, and is among the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe, a place of calm for a quiet walk.

The cultural life of the town is lively. Summer and autumn bring street festivals, among them Špancirfest, a big street-theatre and music event in late August, and Baroque evenings with concerts in churches and palaces. At other times, the squares are peaceful, and a coffee on a terrace is the best way to enjoy them. Most of the historic centre is open at any time, and individual museums and churches have their own hours.

Varaždin is easy to reach from Zagreb, about an hour by road or train, and it makes a good day trip or a longer stay. It suits couples, architecture fans, families and anyone who likes walkable towns.