Port of Opatija

The small harbour of Opatija, known locally as the portić, is the point where this elegant Kvarner resort meets the sea. It is tucked into the town's seafront between the villas and gardens of the old centre and the coastal path, and it is much more modest than the big commercial harbours at nearby Rijeka. What it lacks in size it makes up in atmosphere: a handful of boats moored along the quay, a few cafes and an easy view of the rocky shore, with the long line of hotels from the Habsburg era rising behind.

Opatija became fashionable in the nineteenth century, when the Austro-Hungarian aristocracy and wealthy visitors from across Central Europe came for the mild climate, the sea and the villas, and the town was nicknamed a Riviera on the northern Adriatic. The harbour was part of that story, since guests arrived by boat as well as by rail and carriage, and small craft carried them along the coast. The tradition of the barkajoli, the local boatmen who rowed visitors along the shore, is remembered in a monument by the water, and the heritage still colours local boating trips, which run today from the port in modern vessels.

From the harbour, the Lungomare, the seaside promenade, runs for about twelve kilometres along the coast, linking the fishing village of Volosko with Lovran. It follows the rocky shoreline through gardens, past grand villas and small beaches, and is one of the most pleasant coastal walks in Croatia. Opatija has beaches such as Slatina and Tomaševac close to the port, though like most beaches on the Kvarner coast they are mostly concrete platforms, rock and pebble rather than sand, with ladders into the sea.

The surrounding district rewards a slow walk. Park Angiolina, named after a villa that was the starting point of Opatija's tourism, is just up the hill, and the Carmen Sylva Forest Promenade, St. James' Park, the Casino Rosalia and the Croatian Walk of Fame are all within reach. The Maiden with the Seagull, a bronze statue on the rocks by the sea, has become the town's emblem, and many visitors stop to photograph it near the water's edge.

The harbour area is open year-round and free to walk through. In the evening, the lights of the hotels and the promenade reflect in the water, and in summer you can take a boat excursion along the coast or to nearby islands. Plan about half an hour for the port itself, longer if you walk part of the Lungomare. The place suits couples, families and anyone who wants a gentle introduction to Opatija's seaside atmosphere.