Riva

The Riva is the waterfront promenade of Split, on the Adriatic, the largest city on the Dalmatian coast, and it runs along the southern side of Diocletian’s Palace, between the old walls and the harbour. The Riva’s fame is wide: it is the best-known public space in the city, and locals call it the city’s living room, because it is where people gather to meet, drink coffee, stroll and watch the world go by, morning to midnight.

The Riva has a history that reflects Split’s own. For centuries, the sea reached right to the palace walls, and the area outside the southern façade was a working waterfront of quays, warehouses and boats. In the early nineteenth century, when Dalmatia was briefly under French rule and Marshal Marmont governed the province, the authorities began to reshape the waterfront, creating a regular promenade with a seaside walk, and the project has continued to evolve since then. Over time the Riva became a broad, paved esplanade with a double row of palm trees, a row of cafés and restaurants under the palace arcades, and a view of the harbour and the islands of Šolta and Brač.

It is also the stage on which Split’s public life unfolds. Carnival parades pass along it, and on the feast of St. Domnius, the city’s patron saint, the celebrations of early May fill the Riva with processions, music and crowds. Over the decades the promenade has hosted political rallies, concerts, sports celebrations and informal gatherings, and it is the natural place for the city to come together. In the evening, the lights from the palace walls reflect on the polished stone, and the atmosphere is festive and sociable.

Visitors will find that the Riva is both a destination and a hub. The Peristyle and the cathedral of St. Domnius are a few steps inside the palace, through the Bronze Gate, and the Franciscan monastery and the fish market are within walking distance. The palace cellars, the Golden Gate and the Meštrović Gallery are other sights, and the Bell Tower of Saint Domnius offers a view from above. Ferries and boat tours depart from the harbour at the end of the promenade, so it is also the way to the islands. A seat at a café on the Riva is expensive compared with other parts of town, but many people think the setting justifies the price.

The promenade is free and open at all times. It suits everyone, from families to couples, and the best times to see it are early morning, when the city wakes and the light is soft, and evening, when it is at its liveliest. Be aware that the area can be crowded in July and August, and keep an eye on belongings.