St. Stephen's Cathedral (Katedrala Svetog Stjepana)

The Cathedral of St. Stephen, Katedrala Svetog Stjepana, stands on the main square of Hvar Town, on the island of Hvar, in Dalmatia, in Croatia, at the edge of the large open square that is the centre of the town’s life. It belongs to Hvar Town, the elegant harbour town at the western end of the island, and it is the seat of the bishop of Hvar.

The square, known as Trg sv. Stjepana or simply Pjaca, is one of the largest and most beautiful in Dalmatia, paved with polished stone and bordered on one side by the harbour and on the others by Venetian palaces, the arsenal and the loggia. The cathedral stands at its eastern end, and with its tall bell tower it dominates the view. Hvar was ruled by Venice for centuries, and the square and the church reflect the ambitions of a prosperous trading and naval town that was one of the main bases of the Venetian fleet on the Adriatic.

The present cathedral was built mainly in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, on the site of earlier churches, and it combines Renaissance and Baroque features in a rather elegant way. The bell tower is a fine piece of Renaissance design, rising in several storeys with decorative arcades, and is often said to be a model of the Venetian style. The exterior of the church itself is rather solemn, with a stone façade weathered by centuries of sea air, which gives it a dignified look and contrasts with the lively square in front of it.

Inside, the atmosphere is cool and quiet, with a simple, dignified interior that includes carved altars, richly worked wood and a number of artworks. The paintings include works by Palma the Younger, a Venetian painter of the late Renaissance, known as Palma Junior, whose canvases hang in churches across the Adriatic. A particularly treasured piece is a Madonna in the early Venetian style, dating from the thirteenth century, which is revered by the local people. Together the objects give a sense of the cultural heritage of the island, and the quiet space is a pleasant break from the heat and crowds outside.

Adjacent to the cathedral stands the Episcopal Palace, which houses a museum of sacred art and liturgical objects, so that it is easy to see both the architecture and the collections in a single visit. Visitors typically spend 20 to 45 minutes. Opening hours are generally morning and late afternoon, though they change through the season, so it is advisable to check. Dress modestly, and keep voices low during services.

The cathedral suits those interested in art, architecture and the history of the Venetian Adriatic. The Pakleni Islands, a short boat ride off the coast, offer swimming in the afternoon.