St. Vitus, Modestus and Crescentia Church

The church of Saints Vitus, Modestus and Crescentia is the parish church of Grožnjan, the hilltop town in the interior of Istria that has become known as a town of artists and musicians. It stands in the old centre and its bell tower is the most visible landmark on the skyline when you approach the town along the road from the valley. The three saints it honours were early Christian martyrs, traditionally associated with the persecutions of the early fourth century, and the church keeps their cult alive in the town.

The present building is Baroque and was rebuilt in the eighteenth century on the site of an earlier church. It is the largest religious building in Grožnjan, and its size sets it apart from the small houses clustered around it. The tall bell tower is built from the warm yellow sandstone found in this part of Istria and dominates the old streets, and from the tower's shadow you can glance across the red roofs to the surrounding vineyards, fields and woodland of the Mirna valley region.

Inside, the character is rich and theatrical, in the Baroque way. A decorated altar draws the eye, and a large painting above it shows the three martyrs in a Roman arena, an image that gives the church its story at a glance. Side altars and religious paintings fill the walls. If the door is closed, as it sometimes is outside service times, it is often possible to look inside through the glazed entrance area and see the interior from the doorway.

The church fits neatly into a walking route around Grožnjan. The Main Square, Trg Palih Boraca, the Loggia, the town walls and gates and the small galleries are all within a few minutes' walk, so you can include it on a slow circuit of the old town. Grožnjan has a long-standing reputation for music; international music camps and concerts take place in the town each summer, and the church sometimes plays a part in that sacred and cultural life, although you should check locally for events. The siblings listed for Grožnjan also include entries with similar names for this church, which describe the same building.

Visit in the morning or late afternoon, when the stone glows and the square is quieter. Dress modestly, since this is an active parish church, and keep voices low if a service or rehearsal is in progress. Allow fifteen to thirty minutes inside and out. The visit suits people interested in sacred art, Istrian architecture and the quiet atmosphere of a small hill town.