Traditional Stone Houses

Lopar is a village on the northern part of the island of Rab, in the Kvarner archipelago, on a peninsula that is quite different from the rest of the island. While most of Rab is rocky and wooded, the Lopar peninsula has a gentler landscape of low hills, fields and long sandy beaches, which are a major draw for families, since sandy shores are rare in Croatia. Among the sights of the area are the traditional stone houses that survive in the old parts of the village and in the hamlets of the peninsula, and these give a sense of how people lived here before tourism arrived.

The houses are built of local limestone, which was quarried nearby and shaped by hand, and they follow a simple, practical design. The walls are thick, often more than half a metre, which keeps the interior cool in the heat of summer and warm in winter, a form of natural insulation that predates modern materials. Windows are small and shuttered, roofs are pitched and covered with curved clay tiles, and many houses have an outside staircase and a small terrace or porch. Wooden beams, from local trees, support floors and roofs, and the hearth was the centre of life in the main room. Outbuildings for animals, tools and storage stand beside the dwelling, and low stone walls mark the boundaries of the gardens and fields.

Walking through the old parts of Lopar, you find these houses grouped along narrow lanes, with stone paving, small courtyards and fig trees, vines and herbs in the gardens. Many have been restored and are now used as guest houses and holiday apartments, which means that you can stay in one and experience the interior, with its stone walls and cool air. A few remain in the hands of local families and are still lived in, so respect privacy and look from the street. The architecture is modest but harmonious, and the uniform use of stone gives the village a unified appearance.

Rab has a distinctive history, and Lopar is part of it. According to a tradition, Saint Marinus, who founded the tiny republic of San Marino in Italy, came from the island of Rab as a stonemason, and Rab town, with its four tall bell towers, medieval walls and narrow streets, is one of the most beautiful old towns on the Adriatic. The marina in Lopar is a small harbour for boats and excursions, and the sandy beaches are a short walk or ride from the village.

Check the availability of local accommodation in advance, particularly in summer. Allow an hour for a walk through the village, or stay for several days. The houses suit lovers of vernacular architecture, families and travellers who prefer a stay in a traditional setting.