Trogir Promenade (Riva)

The Trogir Promenade, known as the Riva, runs along the southern edge of the old town of Trogir, on the Dalmatian coast near Split, and it is the stage on which much of the town's life is played out. Trogir is a small island town, joined to the mainland by a short bridge and to the larger island of Čiovo by another, and its compact medieval centre has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1997. The Riva runs along the waterfront facing Čiovo, on the street named after the ban Berislavić, and it is lined with tall palm trees, stone paving, benches and a row of historic buildings that form a backdrop of pale limestone façades, church towers and the Kamerlengo Fortress at the western end. The scene is among the most photographed in central Dalmatia.

The promenade is a place to stroll, sit and watch. Cafés, restaurants and wine bars line the front, with terraces set out under awnings and umbrellas, and many serve fresh local fish, grilled squid, seafood risotto and other Dalmatian dishes, together with wines from the coast and islands. In the morning, people stop for coffee and a pastry, at midday for a leisurely lunch, and in the evening the Riva fills with walkers, families and couples enjoying the cooler air. Yachts and excursion boats tie up along the quay, so there is always movement on the water, and in summer small boats leave for trips to nearby bays and islands. The views across the narrow channel to Čiovo, with its houses and olive groves, are especially pleasant at sunset, when the stone turns golden.

The Riva is lively throughout the year, but many residents and repeat visitors prefer the quieter seasons, when the pace is relaxed and the town belongs more to its inhabitants. In July and August, it can be very busy, particularly when cruise passengers and day trippers arrive, so early morning and late evening are the best times for a calm walk. For a more intimate meal, it is a good idea to step away from the front into the narrow lanes of the old town, where small family-run restaurants and konobas serve similar food at gentler prices. There are no admission fees or opening hours, and the promenade is accessible at all times, with a flat surface suitable for most visitors.

The promenade is the natural starting point for exploring the monuments. The Cathedral of St. Lawrence, with its famous Romanesque portal by Master Radovan, the Town Loggia, the Cipiko Palace, the North Gate, the St. Dominic Monastery and the Church and Clock Tower of St. Sebastian are all within a few minutes on foot, and the Kamerlengo Fortress offers views from its walls. The island of Čiovo has beaches, and the Trogir market is nearby.

The Riva suits couples, families, photographers and anyone who likes to linger by the water. Visit at sunset, and allow time for a slow walk and a meal.