Vela Luka

Vela Luka is a secluded bay on the southern coast of the island of Krk, near the town of Baška, and it is a beach for people who prefer a quiet cove to a busy resort. It cannot be reached by an ordinary road. The usual way to get there is by taxi boat from Baška, a crossing of about fifteen minutes along a rocky coastline, and the boat ride is part of the experience, with views of cliffs and clear water and, in the distance, the island of Prvić and the bare slopes of the mainland. The bay is sheltered, with a pebble shore and water that is clean and very clear, so swimming and snorkelling are especially pleasant on a calm day.

The atmosphere is relaxed and informal. Unlike the main beach in Baška, a long pebble strand that fills with visitors in July and August, Vela Luka keeps a quieter mood even in high summer, because access by boat naturally limits numbers. There are simple facilities at the beach, including umbrellas and sunbeds for rent and a small place that sells drinks and food, so it is possible to spend a full day here without bringing everything with you. Prices at such a place are higher than in town, so it is useful to check them before ordering, and to bring cash. Bring sun protection and a hat as well, since the shade on the pebbles is limited. The beach has no major attractions apart from the sea and the setting, and that is its appeal.

Baška itself is the natural base for the trip. The town lies at the end of a broad valley between two ridges, with a long promenade, a harbour and a mix of old stone houses and holiday apartments. It is famous for the Baška Tablet, a stone inscribed in the Glagolitic script around the year 1100, one of the oldest written records in the Croatian language, which was found in the church of St. Lucy at Jurandvor, a short distance from town. A replica is displayed in the church, and the original is kept in Zagreb. The Baška Glagolitic Trail, a walking route with monuments in the Glagolitic alphabet, links the town with the hills, and the Adriatic Aquarium in Baška is a small attraction popular with children.

When planning a visit, check the boat schedule and the return times, since the last boat of the day determines how long you can stay, and look at the weather forecast, because strong wind can stop the boats. Wear water shoes for the pebbles, and take water, snacks and a book.

The beach suits couples, small groups and families who enjoy a boat trip, and it is best in June and September, when the sea is warm and the boats are less full. Allow a full day, and plan to return before the last boat.