Vrbnik Beaches

The Vrbnik Beaches belong to a small town on the eastern coast of Krk Island in Croatia, built on a flat-topped rock that rises about fifty metres above the sea, and its beaches are reached by descending from the old town. That vertical arrangement is what makes the beaches distinctive: they are cut off from the lanes of the town by cliffs, and every swim involves a walk down and a climb back.

The shoreline below the town is rocky and pebbly, with small coves, flat slabs of stone and narrow strips of shingle. Vajavina is the best known, a beach set below a long flight of steps, which gives it the nickname of the hundred stairs, and Potovošće is another small bay on the same stretch of coast. The water of the Adriatic here is deep and very clear, and because the beaches are tucked under cliffs they are sheltered from some winds and can be cool in the afternoon when the sun goes behind the rock. Water shoes are recommended on the stones, and anyone with mobility difficulties should be aware that the paths are steep.

The beaches are quiet compared with those in the better-known resorts. During high summer, from June to September, the most popular stretches can fill by midday, so it pays to arrive early, and in the shoulder season you can have a cove almost to yourself. Facilities are limited and vary from year to year, and parking in the town is tight in peak months, so plan to walk.

Vrbnik is as interesting above the beach as below. The old town sits on its rock with narrow lanes, stone houses and views down to the sea, and it has a strong tradition connected with the Glagolitic script, the old Slavic alphabet that was used in churches along this coast for centuries. One alley, Klančić, is known as the narrowest street in the world, so tight that people have to turn sideways to pass. The fields behind the town, the Vrbnik plain, are given over to vineyards producing Žlahtina, the local white wine, which is crisp and light and pairs well with seafood. After a swim, it is easy to climb to one of the taverns in town for a glass.

The beaches suit confident swimmers, couples and anyone who likes a dramatic setting. They are less suited to small children or to those who want sunbeds and cafés at the water’s edge. Bring water, a hat and sandals with grip, and allow time for the climb back up.