Vrsar Harbor

Vrsar Harbour is the working and social centre of Vrsar, a small town on the western coast of Istria, just south of the Lim Fjord and about ten kilometres from Poreč. The town itself climbs a hill above the sea, with a pale cluster of stone houses crowned by the bell tower of the parish church, and the harbour lies at the foot of the slope, where fishing boats, yachts and excursion vessels moor side by side. A walk down from the old town to the quay is a short one, and the view back up, with the houses stacked on the hill above the water, is among the most photographed in the area.

The harbour has a long history. People have lived on this headland since the Iron Age, and Roman settlers and later the Venetians and Austrians all used the natural shelter of the bay. For centuries, Vrsar was a summer residence of the bishops of Poreč, who built a fortified castle on the hill, and the harbour served the town's fishermen and traders. A stone gate in the old walls, known as the main city gate, dates from the period of Venetian rule. The Italian adventurer Giacomo Casanova is said to have visited Vrsar in the eighteenth century, and local tradition makes much of the connection. Whatever the details, the town has a long record of welcoming travellers.

The waterfront today is lined with cafes and restaurants, and the harbour is a pleasant place for a coffee or a meal of grilled fish, with the boats moving gently on the water. In the evening, the lights on the water and the sounds of the terraces give it a relaxed holiday atmosphere. The harbour is also the departure point for boat trips, including excursions to the Lim Fjord, a long inlet carved into the limestone, and tours of the Vrsar archipelago, a string of about eighteen small, uninhabited islands that lie just off the coast, which can be visited by boat or sea kayak for swimming and snorkelling. Dolphin-watching trips are sometimes advertised in season, though sightings cannot be guaranteed.

South of the town, the large Koversada complex, one of the oldest naturist holiday centres in Europe, is reached by boat or by road, and it is a well-known feature of the coast. Above the harbour, the sculpture park of Dušan Džamonja, listed in this guide, offers contemporary art among the trees with views of the islands, and the bell tower can be climbed for a panorama.

Plan thirty minutes for a stroll around the harbour, or half a day if you take a boat trip. In high summer, the harbour is crowded, and booking trips in advance is wise. Bring sun protection, and wear shoes with grip, since stone quays can be slippery. The harbour suits families, couples, sailors and anyone who likes small Adriatic ports.