Wine Bars with Terrace

Batina is a village on the Danube in Baranja, in the far northeast of Croatia, and its wine bars with terraces make good use of a spectacular position. The village lies at the foot of a hill that rises directly above the river, and from the upper streets you look out over the wide sweep of the Danube and across to the flat lands on the Serbian bank. Baranja is the wine-growing region between the Danube and the Drava, and the soft loess hills around Batina produce light, fresh whites, especially graševina, as well as traminac and other varieties. A glass of wine on a terrace overlooking the river is the simplest way to experience this landscape.

The best-known of the wine bars is Caffe & Wine Bar Barrique, on Planina Istok. It is known for its terrace, which has wide views of the countryside and the Danube, and for its choice of Baranja wines, which include graševina and other regional varieties, along with good coffee. The atmosphere is friendly and relaxed, and locals and visitors mix at the tables. Many visitors spend two to three hours here, and the terrace is especially appealing in the late afternoon and early evening, when the light softens and the river glows. Staff can explain the wines and suggest pairings with simple snacks, such as cheese and cured meat.

The bars are part of the wider Baranja wine route, a trail of cellars, tasting rooms and family estates that attracts cyclists, motorists and small groups. Reaching some of them takes a little effort, with climbing streets and country roads, but the reward is a quiet tasting in a pleasant setting. Because Batina is above the Danube, the village is also a stop on the cycling route along the river. If you plan to taste several wines, arrange a driver or stay overnight, and drink water between glasses.

Batina has other sights. A large Victory Memorial stands on the hill above the river and commemorates the battle of the autumn of 1944, when forces crossed the Danube here during the Second World War, and its position gives yet another view of the river. The village also has a ferry crossing and a quiet, rural atmosphere. Nearby, the Kopački Rit Nature Park offers birdwatching and boat trips, and Zmajevac and Kneževi Vinogradi have their historic wine cellars.

The terraces suit couples, small groups and wine lovers who like scenery with their glass. Parking is available nearby, and Batina is reached by car from Osijek in under an hour. Visit in summer or early autumn, when the terraces are lively.