Bay of Bakar

The Bay of Bakar is a deep, sheltered inlet on the Kvarner coast, a few kilometres south-east of Rijeka, and the small town of Bakar sits at its inner end, climbing the slope above the water. The bay is one of the best natural harbours on the northern Adriatic, and that fact has shaped the story of the place for centuries. Ships have anchored here since antiquity, and the town grew as a port and as a possession of powerful families, in particular the Frankopans, who held it in the Middle Ages and built the castle that still stands above the roofs.

The old town is a protected cultural monument, and walking through it is the main pleasure of a visit. Narrow lanes with steps climb from the harbour, passing stone houses, small squares, medieval gates and the unusual rounded doorways typical of the town. The castle dominates the waterfront, and the large parish church of St. Andrija is the other main landmark. A building known as the Turkish house, which local tradition connects with a family from the Ottoman world, is listed in this guide, and the drystone terraces on the hillsides, built to hold soil on steep slopes, are another feature of the landscape.

Bakar has a long wine tradition. The terraces behind the town produce a light local wine known as Bakarska vodica, a name that means little water of Bakar, and the town's annual festival in summer, called Margaretino ljeto, celebrates local culture with music and events. A newer themed trail leads up to the hill of Črni Vrh, with information boards about the area's prehistory and its wine, and the town offers self-guided tours in Croatian and English that turn the old streets into a kind of treasure hunt, which is popular with families.

The bay also has an industrial side that visitors should expect. Bakar has been a shipbuilding place since the eighteenth century, and the modern port, with cargo terminals and a former coking plant on the shore, is part of the view from the water. This gives the area a working character that is very different from the polished resorts of Opatija, a short drive to the west, and many people find the contrast refreshing.

Boat tours of the bay are available in season and give a different perspective on the coast and the town. Wear comfortable shoes for the steep lanes, bring water, and allow two to three hours for a relaxed walk through the old town and up to the viewpoints. Bakar suits curious travellers, photographers and anyone who prefers places with real local life to polished tourism.