Berberov buk

Berberov buk is one of the cascades on the Zrmanja, the clear karst river that flows from the Lika highlands down to the Novigrad Sea in northern Dalmatia. The word buk means a waterfall in the local dialect, and the cascades here are of the tufa type, built by the river itself. The Zrmanja is loaded with dissolved limestone, and where the water slows and tumbles over moss and plants, the calcium carbonate is deposited and gradually builds natural barriers, steps and terraces. Over thousands of years, this process has made a staircase of small waterfalls and pools in the river, and Berberov buk is among the most attractive.

The site lies near the village of Muškovci, in the upper course of the river, within the area covered by the Velebit Nature Park. The Zrmanja flows through a deep canyon below, carved into the limestone plateau, and at Berberov buk the river spreads out into several channels, with water running over green tufa ledges and into pools of turquoise and emerald. The pools are separated by low dams of rock, called rimstone, which shape the flow and create a series of small basins. Some of them are good places to swim on hot days, but the rocks can be slippery and the current should be treated with respect.

A self-guided trail, about a kilometre long, leads along the water and past the cascades, and walking it takes around half an hour. It follows the bank, with viewpoints and wooden steps in places, and gives close views of the falls and the pools. It is a short and easy walk, so it suits families and people who do not want a long hike, but wear shoes with good grip. The setting is lush, with willows and other trees leaning over the water and the sound of falling water everywhere.

Facilities are better than at many remote sites. Parking is available, and there are restaurants, cafes, a few bungalows and small beaches along the river, which means that you can combine a short walk with lunch or an overnight stay. The Zrmanja is also famous for rafting and canoeing, and several operators offer trips on the river, which is one of the best-known rivers for paddling in Croatia. The nearby Jankovića buk and the Zrmanja canyon, listed in this guide, make good additions.

The site is free to visit at any time, but the volume of water and the colour of the river vary with the season. Spring and early summer have the most water, and late summer may be calmer and warmer for swimming. Bring sun protection, water and a swimsuit. The site suits families, photographers, paddlers and anyone who likes karst rivers.