Zrmanja Canyon

The Zrmanja is one of the most beautiful rivers in Dalmatia, a clear, green stream that runs from the foot of the Velebit mountains in Lika, across the limestone plateau of the hinterland, to its mouth in the Novigrad Sea, near Obrovac. For much of its course the river flows through a deep canyon, cut into the karst over a very long time, with sheer limestone walls that rise above the water and are covered with scrub and trees. The canyon is hidden from the road, so its drama comes as a surprise: one moment you are in open, rocky pastureland, and the next you are looking down into a ravine with a green river in the bottom.

The easiest way to experience it is from the viewpoints. A short walk from a car park near the road leads to overlooks on the edge of the gorge, where the whole depth of the canyon opens in front of you, with the river curling below. The same landscape was used in the 1960s as a setting for a series of popular Winnetou adventure films, based on stories by the German author Karl May, which is why the area is still associated with the name, and some local places and signs refer to it. The scenery, with its pale cliffs and bright water, is easy to imagine as a stand-in for the American West.

For many visitors, the best way to see the canyon is from the water. The Zrmanja is renowned for kayaking, canoeing and rafting, and several operators run guided trips of different lengths and levels of difficulty. The river has gentle stretches suited to beginners and families, as well as sections with rapids that suit more experienced paddlers. Along the way, you pass tufa waterfalls, quiet pools and shaded banks where you can stop to swim. Tours are small and led by guides, and many of them offer transfers from the main coastal towns such as Zadar, which makes the experience convenient for people without a car. The paddling season runs from spring to autumn, depending on water levels.

The river's waterfalls are a special feature. Berberov buk and Jankovića buk, both listed in this guide, are two of the cascades in the upper part, where the river has built up barriers of travertine. They are reached by short trails and make good stops on a drive through the area.

Be prepared for a remote landscape. Services are limited, so bring water, food and sun protection, and wear shoes with good grip, since the paths near the edge can be rough and the drops are steep. Keep children and pets under control near the viewpoints. The canyon suits photographers, paddlers, families and anyone who likes dramatic landscapes. Allow an hour for the viewpoints, or a full day for a paddling trip.