Jankovića buk

Jankovića buk is the lowest and last waterfall on the Zrmanja River, a stream that cuts a deep canyon through the karst country of northern Dalmatia before reaching the sea near Obrovac. The Zrmanja is one of the cleanest and most dramatic rivers in Croatia, with emerald water running between steep limestone walls that in places rise some two hundred metres above the riverbed. Jankovića buk lies on the lower stretch, below the more remote upstream falls such as Berberov buk, and it is the point where the river's wild canyon section ends.

The fall is not a single plunge but a series of broad, stepped drops over tufa and rock, with pools below where the water turns a pale green. A patch of woodland, rocks and reeds frames the pools, and the roar of the water fills the canyon. Old stone water mills stand along the river here, relics of the days when villagers used the current to grind grain, and their ruins give the spot an extra layer of history. The sense of an abandoned, half-forgotten valley is a big part of the charm.

Getting here is half the experience. The usual way is by boat from the Novigrad Sea, starting from the town of Novigrad and travelling across the sea and up the estuary of the Zrmanja into the canyon. Excursions run in the warmer months, typically from spring to autumn, and they last most of a day, with time ashore at the waterfall for swimming and a picnic. The journey passes cliffs, reed beds and, if you are lucky, birds of prey circling above the canyon walls. Because the route depends on the water level and the weather, it is best to book through a local operator and check conditions.

Swimming beneath the falls is the highlight for most visitors, and the water is cool and clear, though rocks can be slippery and the current stronger after rain, so take care. Bring sandals with grip, sun protection and food and water if the trip does not include them. The Zrmanja Canyon as a whole is also known for rafting, kayaking and walking on the upper river, and the area around Obrovac has several local guides.

Jankovića buk suits swimmers, photographers and families with older children who like a bit of adventure. The scenery is the main draw: a river that has carved its own gorge, and a waterfall that marks the passage between the high plateau and the sea.