Bijele & Samarske Stijene

Bijele and Samarske Stijene are two groups of pale limestone rock formations in the mountains of Gorski kotar, above the village of Mrkopalj. Their names mean the White and Samar Rocks, and they are protected as a strict reserve, one of the few such areas in Croatia where the natural landscape is left largely untouched. The surrounding terrain is karst: bare limestone pinnacles, towers and rock walls rising out of thick forest of beech and fir.

The contrast is the main attraction. The forests of Gorski kotar are dark and damp, and the rocks emerge from them as pale, jagged shapes that look more like an alpine landscape than anything you would expect in a country known for its Adriatic coast. Crags, narrow gullies and viewpoints appear along the trails, and the highest points reach roughly 1,300 metres above sea level. From the open rocks you see ridge after ridge of forested hills, with very little sign of human activity.

Trails to the formations are marked, but they are demanding in places and not always easy to follow. Expect rocky, uneven ground, and wet or slippery stone after rain. A full walk takes a good half day, so plan the time carefully and tell someone where you are going. Because this is a protected reserve, visitors are expected to keep to the paths, take their rubbish home and avoid disturbing plants and animals. The mountain climate can change quickly, and snow lingers late in spring.

The forests and rocks shelter a wide range of wildlife. Gorski kotar is one of the main strongholds of large carnivores in Croatia, including bears, wolves and lynx, though you are very unlikely to see any of them; more commonly encountered are smaller animals and, in damp conditions, the Alpine salamander, which spends its life on land. Wildflowers appear in the clearings from late spring.

The walk suits fit, experienced hikers who are comfortable with rough ground and basic navigation, and who prefer silence to crowds. It makes a good counterpoint to a visit to Plitvice Lakes or the coast, offering the opposite side of Croatia’s scenery. Bring plenty of water, sturdy boots, layers for changing weather and a map or offline navigation, since mobile signal can be patchy.