Velika Zelenica

Velika Zelenica is a viewpoint and hill in the area of Mrkopalj, a mountain village in Gorski Kotar, the heavily forested region of western Croatia between Zagreb and the sea. It lies on the western side of the Velika Kapela range, at an elevation of around eight hundred metres, and it is one of the places from which walkers can look out over the folds of the mountain country, an endless sequence of wooded ridges and valleys with villages and clearings between them. Because it is not a famous summit, it is quiet, and the walk to it has the feeling of an outing rather than an expedition.

Mrkopalj is known for its snowy winters, and it plays a special part in the history of sport in Croatia. The village is often described as the cradle of Croatian skiing, since the first ski competitions, in cross-country and ski jumping, were held here in the early twentieth century, and winter sports are still an important part of local life. Today the area has cross-country trails and small ski slopes, with a seasonal programme of events, and in summer, the same terrain is used for hiking and mountain biking. The village is also on an old road that connected the interior with the coast, and it has a few historic buildings and a small museum.

The landscape around Velika Zelenica is typical of the Gorski Kotar highlands. Dense beech and fir forests cover the slopes, interrupted by meadows and rocky outcrops, and the climate is cool and humid, with heavy rain and snow. In spring and autumn, the colours are striking, and mushrooms and berries grow in the woods. Wildlife is plentiful, though shy, and the region is home to bears, wolves and lynx. Walkers should be prepared for a remote setting with few services and variable weather.

The viewpoint is part of a cluster of natural and historic sites near Mrkopalj. The strict reserve of Bijele and Samarske Stijene, with its pale limestone towers, and the viewpoint at 1,335 metres are listed in this guide, as are a small chapel and the archaeological remains of medieval churches, which give historical depth to a walk in the woods. A day in the area can combine several of them.

Wear sturdy boots, bring water, layers and a rain jacket, and carry a map or offline route, since mobile coverage is patchy and trail markings can be sparse. Paths can be slippery after rain or snow. Tell someone where you are going. The hill suits walkers, photographers and those who like quiet places. Allow two to four hours, depending on the route.