Cathedral of St. Philip and St. James

The Cathedral of St. Philip and St. James is the main church of Novi Vinodolski, a coastal town on the Vinodol riviera, in the Croatian Primorje, in Croatia, south of Rijeka. It stands on a rise above the old town and the Adriatic Sea, and its tall white bell tower is the most conspicuous feature of the town’s skyline, a landmark visible from far along the coast.

The church is probably of medieval origin, and tradition places its construction in the fourteenth century, though it has been altered many times. A legend says that it was built on the site of an earlier votive church dedicated to Saints Fabian and Sebastian, saints invoked against the plague, which the townspeople are supposed to have erected in a single day and night in the hope of being spared from an epidemic. Whether or not the story is literally true, it reflects the deep fear of plague in the Middle Ages and the habit of building a church as an act of protection.

Originally a parish church, it had for a long period the status of a cathedral. It served as the seat of the Diocese of Modruš or Krbava, a bishopric whose original territories were lost to the Ottomans, so that the bishops took refuge on the coast, and Novi Vinodolski became the centre of the diocese for centuries. That status gave the church unusual importance for a small town. The bell tower, a slender white structure of local stone, rises to about thirty-six metres and was completed in the early twentieth century, and it has become a symbol of Novi Vinodolski that appears on postcards and in the town’s image.

The interior has a calm, dignified character, and its most precious feature is the set of carved wooden choir stalls from the late seventeenth century, which are regarded as significant works of art, with decorative detail that shows great skill. Other altars and furnishings add to the richness of the space. As a working church it expects respectful behaviour: visitors are asked to dress modestly and to be quiet. Photography is not permitted inside. Opening times for visits have been limited to certain days and hours, and in the past they have included Wednesdays, Thursdays and Sundays at set times, but they change, so check locally.

The cathedral is close to other sights in the town. The Frankopan castle, known as Kvadrac, stands nearby, the little Island of St. Marin lies off the coast, the Novi Vinodolski Marina and the promenade offer a seaside stroll, and the local wine house Pavlomir allows visitors to taste Žlahtina, the white wine of the area. The town is also known as the place where the Vinodol Law Code of 1288 was drawn up.

The cathedral suits visitors who enjoy church art, history and views, and a visit takes about half an hour.