Vinska kuća Pavlomir

Vinska kuća Pavlomir is a wine house just outside Novi Vinodolski, a coastal town on the Vinodol riviera, in the Croatian Primorje, south of Rijeka. It specialises in Žlahtina, the local white wine, and it gives visitors a chance to taste the wine of the area in the surroundings where the grapes are grown.

The region has a long winemaking history. Vines were cultivated on this stretch of coast from ancient times, and Roman writers praised the produce of the Adriatic shores, so it is likely that grapes have been grown in the Vinodol valley for well over two thousand years. The name Vinodol itself means wine valley, a straightforward indication of the importance of vines. Žlahtina is the indigenous grape of the area and of the nearby island of Krk, especially around Vrbnik, and it gives a pale, golden wine with a greenish tint, fresh acidity and delicate aromas of orchard fruit and herbs. It is usually served young and cool.

A tasting at a house like Pavlomir is a straightforward, sociable affair. Guests sit in a tasting room, hear about how the vines are tended on the slopes and how the wine is made, and try several wines, often with a plate of local food. Žlahtina goes especially well with seafood, white meats and the sheep’s milk cheese of the region, so the pairings tend to reflect that. The staff speak English, and the atmosphere is informal and welcoming, with the family’s own story forming part of the telling. Outdoors, the vineyards and hills give pleasant views, and it is worth taking a moment to look around.

Novi Vinodolski has plenty of interest to fill the rest of a day. The old town has a Frankopan castle and a historic centre of narrow lanes, and the town is known in Croatian history for the Vinodol Law Code of 1288, one of the oldest legal texts written in Croatian, which was drawn up in the Vinodol area. The Cathedral of St. Philip and St. James and the little Island of St. Marin, joined to the town by a footbridge or reachable from the shore, are good places to visit, and Novi Vinodolski Marina and the seafront promenade add a lively note. The fortified site known as Kvadrac is another local sight.

Tastings usually need to be booked in advance, so contact the wine house before going, and arrange a driver or a taxi if you plan to try several wines. It suits wine lovers, couples and anyone who wants to learn about a small but distinctive Croatian wine.