Kvadrac

Novi Vinodolski is a small town on the Adriatic coast between Rijeka and Senj, in the region known as Vinodol, the valley that runs inland from the sea. Its old town sits on a low hill above the harbour, and at the top of it stands a medieval castle, Kaštel Frankopan, whose most prominent part is a tall square tower called Kvadrac, part of Frankopan Castle. The name comes from the shape of the tower, a plain square block that dominates the roofs of the old centre.

The Frankopans, the noble family who ruled much of the Croatian coast in the Middle Ages, held Novi Vinodolski for centuries. They were originally lords of the island of Krk, and from the 12th century onward they extended their power over the mainland, building castles, towns and monasteries. The castle at Novi was one of their strongholds, a defensive point on the coast that watched over the sea and the valley behind. It is also linked to a famous piece of Croatian legal history, the Vinodol Statute of 1288, one of the oldest law codes written in the Croatian language, which was drawn up here and records the customs and obligations of the local communities. The statute makes Novi Vinodolski an important place in the history of Croatian culture, even though the town itself is small.

Kvadrac is also known as the Turnac tower in some accounts, and it has been repaired and reshaped over the centuries, as the castle was attacked in the wars with the Venetians and the Ottomans. Thick stone walls, small openings and a commanding position tell the story of its military function. Today the tower and the castle can be seen as part of a stroll through the old town, and from the heights there is a good view over the red roofs, the harbour and the open sea, with the Adriatic Sea and the island of Krk on the horizon.

The narrow lanes of the old town are lined with old houses, and a few steps from the tower stand the Cathedral of St. Philip and St. James and the small church of the Holy Trinity. The Island of St. Marin (Otok Sv. Marin) is a tiny islet off the coast, and the Novi Vinodolski Marina is the centre of boating life. Vinska kuća Pavlomir is a place for tasting local wines, including the white Žlahtina of the Vinodol valley.

Opening arrangements vary, so check locally. The tower suits history lovers, families and walkers, and it works well as part of a half-day in town.