Church of All Saints, Dekanovec

Dekanovec is a small Croatian village in Međimurje County, the far northern corner of Croatia between the Mura and the Drava rivers, about fourteen kilometres north-east of the town of Čakovec. The landscape around it is flat to gently rolling, with maize fields, orchards and meadows, and the Mura River lies not far away, on the border with Hungary. As in most Međimurje villages, the most important building is the church, and the Church of All Saints (Crkva Svih Svetih) stands on a slight rise in the middle of the settlement, where its tower can be seen across the fields.

The church is protected as part of the region's cultural heritage, and its history is typical of the churches of the area. The building in its basic form dates from the later 18th century, with 1768 often given as its date, and it was altered in the second half of the 19th century, when the Historicist style, which revived older architectural forms, was fashionable. At that time the church was enlarged and given a new façade, and the bell tower was designed in a style that contrasts with the rest of the building, which gives the church a slightly unusual silhouette. Inside, the late Baroque character of the earlier church has been preserved, with altars, a pulpit and painted decoration that reflect the taste of the 18th century. The conservation authorities in Varaždin look after the monument.

In the churchyard stands a stone cross, which is thought to date from around 1877 and which is a typical piece of village memorial art, with a carved base and a plain shaft. Such crosses were erected by communities or families as acts of piety, to mark an event or to give thanks, and they form part of the cultural landscape of Međimurje. The churchyard is quiet, with old trees, and it is a pleasant place to pause.

The village follows the rhythm of the church year. The feast of All Saints on 1 November is an especially important day in Croatia, when families visit cemeteries, light candles and decorate graves with chrysanthemums, and the church and its surroundings are filled with flickering light in the evening. At other times, the church is open mainly for services, so it is wise to ask locally about visiting times. Dress modestly and respect worshippers.

Dekanovec is a good stop on a drive or cycle ride through Međimurje, where small villages, vineyards and wine cellars are the main attraction. Čakovec, with its castle and museum, is a short drive away. The church suits travellers who enjoy rural churches and quiet landscapes, and a visit takes about fifteen minutes.