Church of St. Stephen

The parish Church of St. Stephen stands near the top of Motovun, the hill town in central Istria that rises above the Mirna valley and its truffle forests. It is the main church of the town, and its position beside the old walls and the town's bell tower makes it one of the first buildings visitors meet after the climb from the lower parking area.

The church is a Renaissance building from the early 17th century, with a plain, ordered façade and a large, light interior. Tradition attributes the design to Andrea Palladio, the Venetian-era architect famous for his villas and churches around Vicenza and Venice. Whether or not Palladio drew the plans himself, the clean proportions and classical details reflect the architectural taste of the Venetian Republic, which ruled Istria for centuries and left its mark on Motovun's streets, loggia and winged lion carvings. Inside, you can see altars, paintings and church furnishings from later periods, giving a sense of how the town's religious life continued through the centuries.

Beside the church rises the bell tower, a much older structure that started life as a defensive tower, and which still shows its fortified origins in thick stone walls and battlements. A climb to the top, for a small fee, gives wide views over the roofs of Motovun and across the countryside of rolling hills, vineyards and woods that make up this part of Istria, with the Motovun Forest in the valley below. The tower belongs to the story of the church because the two buildings, the one for prayer and the other for defence and watch, stand together and tell the story of the hill town from two sides.

Practical matters are simple. The church is usually open during daytime hours, although services and special events can affect access, and visitors should dress modestly and keep noise down. The Town Walls, the Main Square and the Communal Palace are only a few steps away, so the church fits into a short walking route that can be done in an hour or two, including the walk along the ramparts.

It suits history enthusiasts, architecture fans and travellers who like views, and it makes a good quiet pause during a day of exploring the hilltop. Late afternoon light on the stone is especially attractive, and the nearby Motovun Film Festival, held each summer, adds an extra reason to visit in July.