Viewpoint at the Town's Tower

Motovun is the best known of the Istrian hill towns, a walled medieval settlement set on a conical hill, about 277 metres above the valley of the Mirna river, in the interior of the peninsula. Its silhouette, with the bell tower and the town walls crowning the summit, can be seen from a long way off across the green plain, and the viewpoint at the town's tower is the place where you turn to look back at what you have just seen. It is the high point of any visit, in the literal sense and in the sense of the experience.

The summit has been occupied since prehistory, and ancient peoples, including the Histri who gave Istria its name, and later the Romans, left traces in the area. The town as we see it today took shape in the Middle Ages, when it became an important fortified settlement, and from the thirteenth century it was a possession of the Republic of Venice, which strengthened the walls and the defences. The town was built in terraces on the hillside, with a lower ring of walls around the main part of the town and an upper ring close to the top, and the old gates and defences are still visible. The bell tower beside the parish church of St. Stephen has defensive origins, and its form, with a heavy lower section, reflects that.

From the walls and the tower, the view is a patchwork of the Istrian landscape: vineyards, fields, oak woods and, in the autumn, the famous truffle forest in the Mirna valley, known as the Motovun forest, which gives the region some of its best-known food. On a clear day, the horizon stretches for many kilometres, and in the early morning mist can fill the valley so that the town appears to float above it. The walk along the ramparts is easy and flat and has places to stop and look, and the main square holds the Communal Palace, a medieval civic building, and the church.

The town also has a literary and cultural life. Local folklore features the giant Veli Jože, a friendly giant of Istrian legend who is said to have lived in the woods around Motovun, and the Motovun Film Festival, which is held in summer, brings film lovers from many countries to its squares. Several sights in this guide describe the old town, the walls, the main square and the nearby Baredine Cave, which is a short drive away.

Plan on an hour or two to walk the walls and explore the town, and more if you stop for lunch with truffles or a glass of Malvazija wine. Car access to the top is limited, and visitors usually park at the foot of the hill and walk up, so wear comfortable shoes. Early morning and evening are best for light and fewer crowds. The viewpoint suits photographers, history lovers and anyone who loves wide views.