The Motovun Forest

The Motovun Forest (Motovunska šuma) is a stretch of lowland woodland in the valley of the Mirna River, below the hilltop town of Motovun in central Istria. It is one of the best-known truffle areas in Croatia, and it is the reason the name Motovun appears on so many Istrian menus. In Roman times the surrounding region was already farmed and settled. The forest is made up of oaks, ash, hornbeam and other broadleaf trees, with a damp, shady floor where the soil and the humidity suit the fungus that grows beneath the roots.

Istria's white truffle (Tuber magnatum) is the star. It is found in autumn and winter, with the main season running through the colder months, and it is one of the few truffles in Europe that has never been successfully cultivated. Hunters work with trained dogs rather than pigs, following their noses along the forest paths at dawn or in the evening. Guided hunts are offered by local families, who explain the habits of the dogs, the signs of a good site and how the truffle is cleaned and stored. A meal built around freshly shaved truffle often follows, with eggs, pasta or local cheese.

The forest also works as a quiet place for a walk. Trails and farm tracks lead from the edge of the woods, and the mix of tall trees, shaded clearings and small streams makes it a comfortable choice on hot days. You will see birdlife and wildflowers, and in some seasons mushrooms of many kinds. The main outline of the hill of Motovun, topped with its walls and bell tower, can be glimpsed through the trees and from the edges of the valley.

Above the forest, Motovun itself is among the best-preserved hill towns in Istria. It was a fortified settlement under Venetian rule, and its town walls, Main Square, Communal Palace and Church of St. Stephen reward a visit. The Motovun Film Festival, held in the town each summer, adds another reason to come. Baredine Cave, the Motovun Vineyard and the viewpoint at the town tower round out a good day in this part of Istria.

The forest suits food lovers, walkers and anyone who wants a taste of inland Istria's slower rhythm. Truffle hunts need to be booked in advance, and the best months for white truffles are the colder ones, so plan accordingly.