Motovun Vineyard

The vineyards around Motovun spread across the slopes of the Mirna River valley in central Istria, below one of the region's best-known hill towns. Motovun itself sits on a hill of about 280 metres crowned by medieval walls, and the surrounding countryside is a patchwork of vines, fields, oak woods and small farms. Because of the rolling hills, cypress-lined lanes and stone houses, the area is often described as the Green Tuscany of Croatia, and the comparison is not unreasonable when the light turns golden in late afternoon.

The landscape matters to the wine. The valley floor and lower slopes hold the red Istrian soil, while the Mirna River and nearby forests influence humidity and morning mist. The best-known local grape is the white Malvasia, known locally as Malvazija istarska, which produces dry, fresh wines with citrus and herbal notes, and which is the signature variety of the whole peninsula. The main red is Teran, a deep, tart and earthy wine that pairs well with the rich local cooking of ham, cheeses and stews. Many small family estates in the Motovun area also make olive oil, and the surrounding Motovun Forest is known for truffles, so a tasting often includes more than wine.

Visits are usually arranged at family-run cellars, and the format is informal. You taste a few wines at a wooden table or on a terrace overlooking the vines, often with bread, local cured meat and cheese, and the host explains how the grapes are grown and aged. Some places offer short walks between the rows, while others add a cellar tour. It is best to book ahead, particularly in September and October during the grape harvest, when the area is busiest and the hills turn red and gold.

The road up to the town is steep, and there are parking areas below the walls, so a walk of 15 to 20 minutes is the usual way to reach the old centre once you have left the car. If you plan to taste several wines, arrange a driver or a guided tour rather than driving the narrow country roads yourself.

Combine a visit with the walk along Motovun Town Walls, the main square and the viewpoint at the town's tower. The vineyard experience suits couples, food and wine enthusiasts, and slower travellers who prefer countryside to beaches. Autumn and spring tend to be more peaceful than the peak summer weeks.