Črni Vrh

Črni Vrh is a hill above the town of Bakar, on the northern Adriatic coast near Rijeka, and it is a hilltop that combines views, archaeology and vineyards. Bakar sits at the head of a deep, sheltered bay, the Bay of Bakar, which is one of the best natural harbours in the Adriatic, and the slopes above the town are covered with a patchwork of terraces held up by drystone walls. These walls are known as the Bakarski Prezidi, and they were built over many generations to create flat strips of soil on the steep, rocky hillside. They have shaped the landscape and the local economy for centuries, and the vines grown on them give a distinctive local wine, including a sparkling tradition for which Bakar is known.

A recently created theme promenade leads up through this landscape to the summit of Črni Vrh. The walk is designed as an educational route, and along the way, information boards describe the geology of the area, the construction of the drystone walls, the history of winegrowing and the plants and animals of the slope. It is a good way for visitors to understand how the terraces were made and why they matter, and the explanations make the climb more interesting than a plain hike. Along the path, the remains of a prehistoric fort, called a gradina, can be seen. These hilltop forts were built by early peoples who lived in the region long before the Romans, with stone ramparts around a summit that gave a clear view of the surrounding country, and the one on Črni Vrh is a tangible link to that ancient past.

The reward at the top is the view. From the summit, the Bay of Bakar spreads out below, with the town and its castle, the harbour, the islands of Krk and Cres in the distance, and the mountains of the mainland behind. In clear weather, the panorama is wide and calm, and it is a favourite place for photographers and for quiet reflection. The climb is moderate, with some steep stretches, and it is better in spring, early summer and autumn, since summer heat on the exposed slope can be strong. Wear sturdy shoes, bring water and a hat, and keep to the marked path.

Bakar has more to see in town. The old centre, with its narrow streets and stairways, the Frankopan castle, the Church of St. Andrew the Apostle and a house built by a family of Turkish origin recall the long history of the port. Local wine producers sell bottles and offer tastings.

The hill suits hikers, history enthusiasts and wine lovers. Allow one to two hours for the walk, and combine it with a visit to the old town and a glass of local wine.