Fort George (Fortica)

Fort George, known locally as Fortica, stands on a hill above Vis Town on Vis Island, and it recalls a time when this remote island was a British naval base. In 1811 a small British Royal Navy squadron under Captain William Hoste defeated a larger French and Venetian force off Vis in the Battle of Vis, and the British then held the island for several years during the Napoleonic Wars. They fortified the heights above the harbour, and Fort George, named after King George III, dates from that period. The fort was built to protect the bay and the town, and from the walls the garrison could watch the sea lanes of the central Adriatic.

The building is a solid piece of early 19th-century military engineering. It is made of local stone, with thick walls, gun positions facing the sea and rooms designed for a garrison. The hilltop setting gives wide views over Vis Town, the harbour and the open water, and the approach from town is a moderately steep climb, which is why many visitors take a taxi or drive. After the British left, the island came under Austrian rule, and in the 20th century it became a closed military zone, which kept it quiet for decades.

In recent years the fort has been restored and put to new use as a cultural and hospitality venue. Part of it has been used as a lounge and restaurant, and the grounds host concerts and other events, so the fort now has a lively evening life, in contrast to its military past. Opening arrangements depend on the season and on events, so it is worth checking locally before making the trip up.

Fort George is a good stop for sunset, when the light softens over the water and the harbour lights come on. It can be combined with other places on Vis, such as the Roman Baths (Termi Romane), the Military Tunnel known as Tito's Cave, and the beaches and coves of Stiniva Cove, Srebrna Bay and Stoncica Bay, which are reached by road or by boat. The Blue Cave (Modra špilja) lies on the nearby islet of Biševo and is usually visited by boat from Komiža or Vis.

The fort suits history fans, photographers and anyone looking for a view with some background. Wear shoes with grip, as paths around the fort are stony and uneven.