Mount Hum

Mount Hum is the highest point of the island of Vis, rising to about 587 metres above the sea, and it dominates the western side of the island above the fishing town of Komiža. The mountain is a bare, wind-swept limestone ridge, and its summit gives a very wide view. On a clear day you can look over the Adriatic to the island of Biševo, home of the Blue Cave, and to other islands scattered across the open sea, with the long, silvery line of the coast of the Dalmatian mainland on the horizon. The lower slopes are covered with dry stone terraces, vineyards, carob trees and Mediterranean scrub, and the contrast between the dry mountain and the sea below is striking.

Getting to the top is part of the pleasure. A narrow, winding road climbs from Komiža, and drivers should take it slowly, since there are tight bends, little room to pass and occasional loose stone. The alternative is to walk, and hikers can follow paths that start from the town or from the villages on the slopes, with gradients that suit reasonably fit people. Most walkers choose the cooler hours of the morning or evening, because there is almost no shade on the way. At the top, a small chapel adds a note of quiet, and the ridge is open and breezy, with wide room to sit and look.

Sunset is the most popular time. The light turns the sea and the neighbouring islands gold and pink, and photographers often gather before dusk. Bring a torch or phone light if you plan to walk down after dark, and wear sturdy shoes, as the ground is stony. There are no shops or cafés at the summit, so carry water and snacks, and take a jacket since the wind can be cool even in summer.

Vis has an unusual recent history. For decades it was a Yugoslav military base, closed to foreign visitors until 1989, which helped to keep the island quiet and unspoiled. Reminders include the Military Tunnel and Tito's Cave on the slopes, as well as Fort George, known locally as Fortica, above the town of Vis. Other highlights lie close by, including the Roman Baths (Termi Romane), Stiniva Cove, Srebrna Bay and Stončica Bay, so the mountain fits well into a longer island day.

The summit is free to visit and open all year, and it suits hikers, photographers and drivers who like a scenic route. Spring and autumn offer the most comfortable temperatures for walking, and a clear day gives the best views.