Glagolitic Alley (Aleja Glagoljaša)

Glagolitic Alley (Aleja Glagoljaša) is an open-air memorial along a seven-kilometre road between Roč and Hum, two small hill towns in the interior of Istria in Croatia. It was created in the late 1970s and early 1980s, between 1977 and 1985, as a tribute to the Glagolitic script, the oldest Slavic alphabet, which was devised in the 9th century by the brothers Cyril and Methodius and was used for centuries in Croatian lands for church books, legal documents and everyday writing.

The idea came from the writer Zvane Črnja, who wanted a monument to the role of Glagolitic writing in Istrian and Croatian culture, and the work was carried out by the sculptor Želimir Janeš, with the literary historian Josip Bratulić contributing to the content. Along the road stand eleven monuments, made of stone and shaped like pillars, tables, benches and abstract figures. Each is linked to a person, event or document from the history of Glagolitic culture. Among them are the Pillar of the Čakavian Parliament, the Table of Cyril and Methodius, and the Assembly of Clement of Ohrid, a disciple of the two brothers who spread the alphabet further.

The setting is a major part of the experience. The road runs through the rolling countryside of inland Istria, past oak woods, meadows and vineyards, and the monuments sit in the open, framed by the landscape. At either end are two historic villages: Roč, a small walled town with a strong Glagolitic tradition, where some of the oldest documents in the script were preserved, and Hum, which calls itself the smallest town in the world, with only a handful of residents and a famous gate. The Hum Parish Church, the Hum Town Gate and the Hum Cemetery and Chapel are all within the little settlement.

The alley can be seen in different ways: by car, stopping at each monument; by bicycle, which gives a better feel for the countryside; or on foot, for those who want a long walk, though the full distance is several hours there and back. It is free and open at all times, and the roadside is quiet, but it is a public road, so take care with traffic. Bring water, sun protection and a hat, as there is little shade in places.

The alley suits history lovers, walkers and cyclists, and anyone who wants to combine culture with a scenic drive. It also fits well into a day that includes both villages and a meal at a local konoba, where regional dishes with truffles, homemade pasta and local wine are often on the menu.