Hum Cemetery and Chapel

Hum is the little hilltop settlement in central Istria, in Croatia, that is often described as the smallest town in the world, and the Hum Cemetery and Chapel lie just outside the walls. The settlement has a population that numbers only in the dozens, a single main street and a ring of medieval stone walls, and the place is as much a conversation piece as a historic site. The cemetery gives a different view of it from the one most visitors see inside the gate.

The setting is quiet and rural. Hum stands on a hill overlooking the valley of the Mirna river, with fields, woodland and scattered farms around, and the walk to the cemetery runs through open country with views of the town walls above. The graveyard has simple gravestones, many of them bearing the same family names that have been associated with the settlement for generations, and the grounds are neatly kept. A small chapel stands within or beside it, of modest size and traditional form, serving local religious observances. There is a feeling of continuity here, because the same few families have remained in the area for centuries, and the graves record that life in a very direct way.

While it is small, the place is best approached as a pause in a wider walk. Hum’s main sights are small and easily seen in an hour or two: the Town Gate, the single lane with its stone houses, the Parish Church of the Assumption of Mary, and the views from the walls. The Glagolitic Alley, a path of about seven kilometres that links Hum with the village of Roč, is lined with monuments that honour the tradition of the Glagolitic script, the old Slavic alphabet that was used in Istrian churches for centuries. The alley passes through woods and meadows and makes a fine walk if you have time.

Hum has another local speciality. The settlement is known for biska, a spirit flavoured with mistletoe and herbs, which is offered in the small shops and taverns of the town, and for hearty Istrian food, including homemade pasta and local meats, served in a couple of restaurants. The atmosphere is calm, and in early morning or late afternoon the light on the stone is soft and the crowds have gone.

It is respectful to treat the cemetery as a place of memory rather than a tourist attraction, so keep voices low, avoid walking on graves and avoid photographing people. The site is accessible on foot from the town and is free to enter. It suits those who like quiet corners, who are interested in rural traditions and who want a more reflective view of Istria than the beaches offer.